A culinary journey through the Christmas market

Did you know that… ?

… the Christkindlmarkt on the squares around the Cathedral consists of some 100 stalls? What is striking, is that only about ten of them are catering stalls. Furthermore, each one of these stalls offers its own unique range. We wanted to find out more and paid the market a visit on a cold December evening.

For the traditionalist

Those who prefer something hearty and don't necessarily want to have mulled wine are sure to enjoy a savoury Bosna or a pair of sausages. In front of the Cathedral, "Speck Willi" (stand no. 2) tempts you with game specialities or with a raclette sandwich, with bacon upon request. This is accompanied by Jagatee [hunters' tea with rum] or a local beer. The rolls on offer are filled with ham and Leberkäse [Austrian fine meatloaf], cured sausages hang above the counter and the freshly baked bread smells divine. The staff recommended a dollop of cranberry jam with the raclette sandwich, and indeed, it made all the difference – the melted cheese tastes twice as good.

For the creative gourmet

"Only here, only now" we learned that there is the Haunsberger. At stand no. 82 on Residenzplatz we get this Salzburg speciality: a warm roll filled with home-made pork sausage meat, mustard, sauerkraut, onion and curry. This delicacy, which is reminiscent of Bosna in taste, was created about 30 years ago and is now one of the highlights of the market. While we wait for our food, our eyes fall on the board above the counter. There are specialities like Surbratlbrot [open sandwich with brine-cured pork roast], Bratlfettbrot [open sandwich with pork dripping] and Verhackertsbrot [open sandwich with pork fat and bacon spread]. Some of the Austrian name require an explanation.

For the sweet tooth

Advent without sweets? – Impossible! Apart from Christmas biscuits and the typical roasted almonds, we found a stall in front of the cathedral offering the honey-flavoured goodness that belongs to Advent like candlelight: gingerbread. Michael Meinhart, the young beekeeper running stall no. 43, was already smiling at us. We got a taste and couldn't resist taking a few pieces home. As we walked along, we saw sweet dumplings, chocolate-covered fruits and the popular Weihnachtsschmarren [thick shredded fluffy pancake]. (Seems like we'll have to come back tomorrow to try it all).

For the vegetarian and vegan

Just a few minutes into our stroll around the market, we noticed quite a few signs with the word "vegan" on them. That tickled our interest and we decided to take a closer look. There are indeed plenty of options for vegetarian and vegan visitors on both Domplatz and Residenzplatz. For instance, there are vegan pretzels at stand no. 17 on Domplatz ("The ones with the green dot", we were told) and Spitzbuben-Herzen [jam sandwich biscuits] at stand no. 81 on Residenzplatz. The crepes at the Kaffeehütte (stand no. 77) are also completely vegan and, with a few exceptions, so are all the toppings.  For the bigger appetite, vegetarians can get Zupfbrot [tear-and-share bread] at Residenzplatz and all those on a vegan diet can enjoy a tasty jacket potato with vegan garlic or herb sauce.

For the gourmet

Ever thought of taking a first date the Christkindlmarkt or celebrating a birthday there? Stand no. 64 on Domplatz is the place to go. Here, at Kneidl's, you'll find champagne and prosecco, accompanied by herring baguettes, salmon, sushi and even oysters. The fish – locally sourced, of course – is smoked fresh on site almost daily. When the lights are dimmed on Thursdays and Saturdays at 6:30 p.m., the tower brass musicians play Christmas tunes from the terrace of the Salzburger Heimatwerk, creating a festive atmosphere throughout the Christkindlmarkt. This experience is – only in Salzburg.

• Market plan