IN FOCUS: Andräviertel

Anyone in Salzburg who happens to be yearning for Paris, Berlin or Vienna, can confidently leave their wallet tucked away in their back pocket. Instead of buying expensive plane tickets, we prefer to pay the fare for a bus ride or make our way there on foot (simultaneously minimizing our CO2 footprint!): Either way, before we know it we are in the heart of the Andräviertel – the place-to-be, somewhat removed from the well-trodden tourist paths and in the midst of a younger scene.

Old transformed into new

The Andräviertel is roughly demarcated by the four so-called “Lodron Bastions” and a half-bastion on the Kapuzinerberg, as well as the line of the now-demolished old city wall. By the middle of the 19th century, it was no longer needed for defensive purposes. Instead, the remnants migrated down to the Salzach, where they continue to help regulate the flow of the river to this day. This also presented an ideal occasion for the long-overdue construction of a new St. Andrew’s Church, known by the locals as the Andräkirche. That said, it isn’t too hard to figure out where the name of the new part of town that sprung up around it, and which extends to the edge of Mirabell Gardens, in fact came from.

Oasis for globetrotters

The Andräviertel owes its Parisian and Viennese flair to Valentin Ceconi. This Austrian architect and builder designed the imposing homes that are so reminiscent of the famous Ringstrasse and other magnificent buildings of the late 19th century. The oldest of these are found in the Rainerstrasse, having gone down in the city’s chronicles – and in the list of historic monuments – as the “Faberhäuser”. Next to these impressive old buildings, Salzburg Congress marks the perfect modern contrast. Organizers of events, visitors and exhibitors find here one of Europe’s most extraordinary congress venues.

The morning has some true treats in store for early risers!

If you get excited about good, fresh, locally sourced food, you are likely to start doing handstands – at least mentally, since you will probably already have your hands full of Shopping bags! Every Thursday between 5 AM and 1 PM, the so-called Schranne is held next to the Andräkirche. This is an over 100-year-old weekly market, guaranteed to have just what you’re looking for – incidentally, one of the biggest and best-known markets of its kind in Austria. In fact, the sites for the market stands are so highly coveted that would-be market-stand owners (who will eventually be known as “Standler”) frequently have to wait as much as 10 years until they finally get the nod.

Epicurean delectations and cultural pleasures

Franz-Joseph-Strasse will give you an opportunity to pause after your busy morning visit to the Schranne for some well-earned refreshments. Fans of Italian or of delicious ice cream will likely head to the Tiziana – a café with true Italo flair. Just a few more doors down and you will discover an irresistible selection of tortes as well as breakfast variations at Café Fingerlos. Between the two lies the Wernbacher, captivating guests with its retro charm. If you are looking for pure coffee enjoyment and a cool location, we suggest popping into Röstzimmer 15 – a coffee roastery and shop with integrated stand-up coffee bar on Wolf-Dietrichstrasse, a street where your dining opportunities are many and varied. Just a couple more steps and you will come to the Gustav, an insider bistro tip for vegans, as well as Alfonso Martone’s Pasta e Vino. The latter of those, so the rumor has it, quietly boasts the best pasta in town!  

If you happen to spend the entire day munching your way through the Andräviertel – and, believe it or not, that is not unlikely! – Come evening, you might well decide to pay a visit to the Toihaus Theater. This contemporary stage offers an appealingly innovative performance program outside of the mainstream, totally in keeping with the character of the Andräviertel as a whole. And after the show, there’ll still be time for a trendy nightcap at the Academy Bar right next door.