Mozart. Following the traces of a genius. 

Where everything began.

Where better to start than the place where Mozart came into this world? The yellow façade of his birthplace is world famous and is probably featured on millions of photographs worldwide. The museum allows visitors to travel back in time with original instruments, the Mozarts' living quarters and a comprehensive exhibition – but more about that later. For now, I would like to linger in front of the building and take in the unique atmosphere: Salzburgers, to whom Mozart is a quotidian presence, mingle with awe-stricken tourists clutching their cameras.

Protecting Salzburg's most sacred treasure

The walk continues across the Salzach river into the Schwarzstrasse. The building at umber 26 constitutes the heart of the "Mozart Imperium". The Salzburg Mozarteum Foundation was founded in 1880 and has three main functions: the administration of the two museums, supporting academic research of the life and œuvre of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and organising concerts. This brings to mind something my mother once said: "You can hear Mozart's music anywhere, but nowhere does it sound as beautiful as in Salzburg." – she is evidently right, since a few minutes in front of the Foundation's main building created a special mood: music students can be heard rehearsing scales and people talking about Mozart with great enthusiasm and respect.

Visiting Mozart's family

The next stage of the walk takes us to St. Sebastian's cemetery. The Mozarts' grave holds the remains of Mozart's father, niece and grandmother as well as those of his widow and her aunt. Only upon looking closely at the back of the large tombstone do we realise that Constanze's second husband is also buried there; so even after his death he remains in comparative obscurity. I'm intrigued by the grave, and search a little in the internet. Lo and behold - Wolfgang's father, Leopold, lies practically "next door", at no. 84 in the arcade. I make a note to visit St Peter's cemetery later, where Wolfgang's sister Nannerl is buried.

A monument. The Romans. A death.

On the way back to the old town, there are some recommended photo spots accentuating Salzburg's "Instagrammability". On the Mozartsteg, for example, I can take a highlight photo in every direction. I also take pictures of the monument on Mozartplatz, of course. It has stood there since 1842, although there is a sad anecdote to tell: the original plan was to erect the statue in 1841 on the 50th anniversary of Mozart's death in the presence of his widow Constanze. As it happens in a city with a long history, a Roman mosaic was discovered in the course of digging up the ground. When the statue was finally unveiled in September 1842, Mozart's widow had unfortunately already passed away. Today, the monument with the proud "Wolferl" stands in front of Constanze's last residence (the pink house behind him) and a replica of the mosaic lies at his feet. 

A life in the service of the Church

Just a few yards along, I want to take a look at the baptismal font in Salzburg Cathedral where he was christened as "Joannes Chrystostomus Wolfgangus Theophilus". He later translated his last Christian name into Amadeo or Amadé. Mozart and the Church – this was an explosive mixture, as the Prince-Archbishop was Mozart's employer. During his time in Salzburg, Mozart composed for two prince archbishops, Schrattenbach and Colloredo. The former was a keen patron of the arts, the latter, however, wished Mozart to keep strict "office hours" and to produce conventional works. This was of course quite unthinkable for a creative genius; Mozart wanted to try including new, "foreign" influences in his music. In the end, he quit Salzburg. But his legacy remains, attracting music-lovers in their thousands. Closer observation will make the visitor to Salzburg aware of the sheer fascination exerted by Mozart and his music.

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