Christmas in Salzburg

When does the Christmas season actually begin? Is it on the 1st Sunday of Advent or not until the family comes together on Christmas Eve? Here in Salzburg, at least, the anticipation of Christmas begins a little earlier for many – namely in mid-November, when the first huts are put up for the Christkindlmarkt [Christmas market] in the old town. Then it is not long before that delightful scent of punch, candy floss and roasted almonds fills the air – bringing back childhood memories to people of all ages. That is the time to get tickets for one of the numerous Advent events – from the traditional Adventsingen concert in the Great Festival Hall to the Advent Serenades and the Hirtenadvent, each year the events calendar bears plenty of Christmassy treats. In all the pre-Christmas hustle and bustle, we must not forget to buy a Christmas tree. Some families visit the Christmas tree forest just outside of Salzburg as early as the end of October, because for a fee you can reserve your favourite tree long before the festive season.

Waiting for the Christkind [Christ Child who brings the presents on Christmas Eve]

When it's finally Christmas Eve, children, to whom it seems like the longest day of the year are filled with anticipation, impatience and excitement all day long. Parents are often desperate for activities to pass the time until the evening. Fortunately, there are plenty of things to do in Salzburg – a visit to a museum or puppet theatre, ice skating in the Volksgarten or a ride on the local train to the Silent Night Chapel in Oberndorf. Children also love the beautiful nativity scenes lovingly set up every year in many of the churches. Many adults are also drawn to one of the town's Christmas markets or the one at Hellbrunn on Christmas Eve to meet friends for mulled wine or to shop for candles or Christmas tree decorations. At 12:00 noon it gets really noisy for a bit, because the fortress riflemen line up for the Christkindlanschießen [ushering-in Christmas with a rifle salute] on the fortress – and when "Silent Night! Holy Night!" sounds from the Glockenspiel: it's definitely Christmas.

Christmas Eve

Before they go back home, Salzburgers traditionally visit the graves of their loved ones. Candles are lit everywhere and, in some cemeteries, brass bands play sombre Christmas music. As soon as it gets dark, the wait for the Christkind becomes almost unbearable for children. That's why many churches invite visitors to a Krippenlegungsfeier [celebratory mass to lay baby Jesus into the nativity scene] in the late afternoon. It is also an opportunity to light your lantern with thhe peace light and take it home to light the candles on your Christmas tree – but wait, that's usually the Christkind's job.

Finally, the much-anticipated bell rings, the door to the "Christmas room" opens and the children behold the sparkly Christmas tree – and then come the presents. Before they are opened, however, someone in the family reads the Christmas Gospel and then play music or at least sing together. In the land of Silent Night, this world-famous Christmas carol is a must. 

After the presents, those who celebrate Christmas without or with older children head out once more to take part in midnight mass. Full, satisfied and content, it usually takes quite some effort to leave the warm home. Nevertheless, the nightly church service is not to be missed, and after all, there's the warming Mettensuppe [traditional Christmas soup] waiting at home afterwards.

• The song “Silent Night”