Theresa Lanz - Portrait | © knauseders.at

A dirndl for any occasion: Theresa Lanz

Those looking for authentic traditional costume fashion in Salzburg, will find it in her shop: Theresa Lanz represents the third generation of the successful traditional costume dynasty. 1922, the year when the Salzburg Festival was founded, marks the beginning of a Salzburg success story. We were able to talk to traditional costume designer Theresa Lanz about her way of running the old-established business, what this has to do with a tree house and how to tie an apron correctly.

Ms. Lanz, what are you responsible for within the company and what aspect of your work do you enjoy most?

I am actually responsible for everything. From purchasing to design and staff to sales. I'm at the shop in Schwarzstraße every day at seven thirty in the morning, motivate the staff and of course work with them myself. After the shop closes is my time for the creative side, when I do the purchasing for our shops in Salzburg, St. Gilgen and Vienna. Actually, the creative side is what I studied and also what I like to do most. Unfortunately, there is often very little time for that. That's why I usually go to the studio at the weekend – full to the brim with creative, new ideas. For example, I like to mix materials that are not traditionally mixed, such as a silk apron with a loden dirndl. I also design the prints for our dirndls myself.

When did you start sewing?

My grandmother gave me my first sewing machine when I was five. I remember sewing tiny Lanz-curtains out of different pieces of fabric for my tree house. I also assembled dirndls in our workshop when I was about six. When I was 13, I started to work in our shop in Salzburg in the summer holidays. Many of our clients have known me almost all my life. The wonderful thing was, that I never felt any pressure from my family. This is why I went abroad after I'd finished school. I was in Paris, in Oslo and in Berlin. Then I studied fashion design in Munich and afterwards spent a year in the United States. When I got back, I took over our shop in Vienna.

Does your shop offer dirndls to suit every woman?

Definitely! It doesn't matter if you're tall or short, slim or plump: a dirndl simply suits every woman. The only thing is that you must find the right cut for your figure.

You create the fabric prints yourself. Can you tell us the story about that?

The story harks back to my great aunt. She is effectively the creator of the Lanz dirndl. At the time, my great aunt had a lady who drew the details of the fabric prints, and the two of them began to print different stories onto the fabrics. We also have many fairy-tale prints, and of course the famous Salzburg prints with depictions such as the Cathedral or the Felsenreitschule. Prints of the Grünmarkt with the Collegiate Church and the market stalls are also very popular.

Lanz has dressed many celebrities. Could you name a few?

In general, many members of royal families buy from us. Just recently, for example, the Prince of Denmark had us tailor a jacket for him. Last year, the Prince of Jordan and his family were here, they have been loyal to us for generations. Queen Máxima of the Netherlands and Prince D'Arenberg with his three daughters and his wife are also regular visitors. For the birth of the two children of Charlène and Albert of Monaco, we sent traditional costumes from Salzburg.

Where do you get your creative inspiration?

From life. I walk through the streets and observe. I always keep my eyes open in that respect, and look at what people are wearing, what colour combinations they chose. I'm always creative, even when I'm on holiday.

What makes Salzburg unique for you?

The city view of Salzburg is unique for me. When you look out at my store, you see this backdrop, this stage, with the beautiful churches and squares and the history, the mountains and you are also immediately at the lake. It's incredible and for me it's the most beautiful city in the world. I am very happy to live here.

INSIDER TIPS

What is your favourite occasion to wear a dirndl in Salzburg and do you also wear one to the Salzburg Festival?

I actually wear a dirndl on any occasion. In my opinion, a dirndl is always appropriate in Salzburg – whether it's for a cocktail reception or an art opening. I even have my own Dirndl room at home. I simply can't part with any of them.

To which restaurant do you also wear a dirndl?

To any restaurant. When I go out for dinner on Saturday after work, I don't change. But for me, a dirndl is like a second skin. I also wore a dirndl to dinner in New York once. The Americans thought it was great.

Where do you like to take walks with your family?

I like to walk through the Old Town. The best time is at 8 in the morning, when it's still quiet. I stroll across the market, go to Konditorei Schatz for a coffee or visit Frau Aigner at the Café Tomaselli. Right opposite our shop, at Café Bazar, Herr Wolfgang serves the best überbackene Schinkenfleckerl [gratinated pasta with ham], the best Marilllenknödel [sweet potato-dumplings filled with apricots] and the best bellinis. Simply magnificent!

Is a dirndl a good souvenir for tourists to remember Salzburg by – and if so why?

Definitely. It reminds them of the way we live here in Salzburg. A dirndl – that's Salzburg – it's tradition. On special occasions, such as christenings or weddings, we wear dirndls. And the fabrics tell stories, like the apron with the Salzburg churches on it. When these stories then travel around the world with their wearers, it's a beautiful thing.

Special Tip

How do you correctly tie a dirndl apron?

The basis: tied to the right means married, to the left means single and at the back means widowed.
Special task: make a pretty bow. The most important thing with that is the sufficient width of the bands. Many companies have relatively narrow bands, with which it's difficult to make a decent bow. We place a lot of importance on wide bands. With our dirndls, the fabric is even double. Finally you pull it tight and then shape it a bit – done!