Discovering the UNESCO-town: Gabi Freischlager

Ms. Freischlager, you worked as a cultural manager in Salzburg for many years and recently completed your training as an Austria Guide. What prompted you to do this?

The decisive factor for this step was my passion for art and culture. It has accompanied me all my life. And my great pleasure in passing on this knowledge to other people – in art education. I studied art history and communication studies and wanted to go back to the roots. The training as an Austria Guide opened up new perspectives on Salzburg for me. The town also has exciting architecture and art locations to offer beyond the places frequented by most visitors.

When you show visitors "your" Salzburg and tell them about the history: What do you particularly enjoy about it? 

The best thing is when I can spark the visitor's interest and enthusiasm. And also, when locals say "Wow, I didn't know that", that makes me very happy. 

You know every place in Salzburg. Can you tell us your favourite place in Salzburg? 

Salzburg is a unique synthesis of landscape and architecture. The squares around the cathedral "work" together and it's hard for me to decide which is more beautiful. But if I have to choose, it's Kapitelplatz. It opens up the view to Hohensalzburg Fortress in a beautiful way. I also really like Stephan Balkenhol's Sphaera – "The Man on the Golden Sphere". It has become one of Salzburg's landmarks. The giant chessboard in front of the sphere is always bustling with people, there's always something going on. The baroque horse pond is a lovely place to linger, especially in summer. The whole ensemble at Kapitelplatz is just very harmonious.

What is always part of your tours? 

On every tour I make references to current events and contemporary art. For example, to the sculptures of the "Walk of Modern Art" and the exhibitions in galleries (German). I also always mention that every style was once contemporary. For example, the baroque Collegiate Church, one of Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach's signature buildings, was fiercely disputed at the time. People are often quite astonished when I mention the age and history of old-established businesses in Salzburg or coffee houses and restaurants. 

What is your assessment of UNESCO: "conserve and continue to preserve" or "take new paths and dare to do something new"?

Salzburg's inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List is an incredibly valuable distinction that brings with it a lot of responsibility. However, a historical "monument", a building, must also be revitalised so that it has a future. Everyday life must be possible in the historic centre in a sustainable way. Pubs, shops, the university, museums or galleries in the historic centre are essential for people's quality of life. Personally, I think both are needed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site: the protection of historical stock as well as renewal.

Just like everywhere else, there are many things you can know about a city, but you don't have to. What is your funniest favourite piece of "useless knowledge" about Salzburg? 

There are several. In Salzburg, for example, there was once a tram that had an egg-yellow colour. That's why it was popularly known as the "racing egg tram". And what many people don't know is that beer was once compulsory in Salzburg. From 1664, Prince Archbishop Guidobald Count Thun Hohenstein ordered all Salzburg innkeepers who did not have their own beer production to serve beer from the archbishop's Hofbräu Kaltenhausen. This beer compulsion was not very successful, however, because the archbishop's beer did not taste very good. Therefore, the Salzburgers tried to bypass this regulation as best they could. 

INSIDER TIPS

Which is your favourite Durchhaus and why?

The Schatz-Durchhaus at Getreidegasse 3 is my favourite Durchhaus. It dates back to the 13th century. Because many shops have settled here, it looks a bit like a bazaar. The architecture is typically Salzburg: arcades with columns made of Adnet marble from the 16th century and the arcaded courtyard. It is also the only through house that is surrounded by arcades all around. The shark fin and whale rib of the trade factor Andrä Mayr hanging from the ceiling of the passageway are symbols of the Levant trade. Plus, of course, there's the Konditorei Schatz with the beautiful, historicist shop portal by Valentin Ceconi and super-good cakes, tarts and pastries. 

Which is your favourite alley in Salzburg and why this one in particular?

Definitely: the Steingasse with its medieval flair. It was an old Roman road to Aquilee and today captivates with charming little eateries, antique shops, galleries and street art. It also opens up a wonderful view of the old town on the left at the Inner Stone Gate. A small, quiet oasis near the centre! 

Which architectural delicacies do you think one should not pass by carelessly?

The College of St. Benedict in St. Peter. It is an example of modernism in Salzburg with frescoes by Anton Faistauer. The furnishings in the entrance hall are remarkably well preserved and the monumental Crucifix of Horror by Jakob Adlhart is one of the masterpieces of sacred expressive art. The expression of pain is breathtaking. The Kollegienkirche, one of the most beautiful baroque churches by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, should not be passed by carelessly either, nor should the Paracelsusbad. The modern bath by Berger+Parkkinen Architects in the spa garden near Mirabell Palace is a very successful example of contemporary architecture on the threshold between the historic centre and the new town. 

• more about the tours from Gabi Freischlager (german)