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Scenes

Salzburg during the Festival: Where magic meets great passion

I pack my suitcase excitedly – full of anticipation for my imminent trip to the exceptional cultural experience that is the Salzburg Festival. I am overcome by a tingling feeling – butterflies in my stomach.

And yet just a few years ago, I had no intention of visiting Salzburg. How all my friends with an affinity for classical music – opera in particular – were staying at the Blaue Gans, admiring their opera stars in the Great Festival Hall and enjoying this lifestyle, completely mystified me. I was much more drawn to the major opera houses in Europe.

Salzburg's cultural charm is hard to resist

However, when I suddenly find myself in the picturesque little town on the river Salzach and experience an intense week of cultural delight, I understand what draws every culture lover and traveller so magically to the Mozart town.

Wide-eyed and amazed, I wander through the narrow, charming lanes of the Old Town in the most beautiful weather, past stately Belle Époque buildings, cross the famous Getreidegasse, home to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart's birthplace, and discover countless passageways in the labyrinth of winding backstreets that branch off into other streets of the Old Town. I wander around happily, curiously immersing myself in the aesthetic townscape and, after a short time, end up in front of the entrance gates of the magnificent Salzburg Cathedral, a veritable masterpiece of baroque architecture.

Branching off from there to the north, I discover the Residenzplatz, which merges into the Mozartplatz where the Baroque architecture continues. Then I look up to Hohensalzburg Fortress, which completes the picture of Salzburg. Culture really is omnipresent in here. Nobody can rebel against this concentrated cultural charm offensive, let alone escape it. It is simply a wasted effort. In Salzburg, culture and lifestyle come together in such a casual and delightful way – the two are inextricably linked.

Culture and lifestyle are inextricably linked in Salzburg

As a visitor, whether you have an affinity for classical music, culture, history or none of the above, it's hard to resist the plethora of cultural events, museums, art galleries, palaces and Festival highlights in Salzburg.

The Salzburg Festival attracts visitors with exceptional new opera productions and evokes such an intense "sense of desire" that some prefer to miss other festivals just to experience the unique flair of the Salzburg Festival at least once. There is an unmistakable mood as soon as you set foot in the Great Festival Hall, observe all the elegant ladies in their stylish evening gowns and mingle in this exhilarating atmosphere. As soon as you enter the auditorium, you realise that simply being there means everything you ever dared to hope for, because exclusivity and a unique selling point, also in terms of the exceptional cast of world-class singers, are the hallmarks of the Salzburg Festival.

However, it is not merely classical music that attracts visitors to the Salzburg Festival, but an equally unsurpassable annual highlight on the Cathedral Square: Jedermann [Everyman], Hugo von Hoffmannsthal's famous play about the life and death of the rich man, which is highly anticipated across the world. The disappointment is always palpable when Salzburg's Schnürlregen [heavy, constant rain] pours down onto the open-air stage, forcing the audience and cast to move into the illustrious halls of the Grosses Festspielhaus. After all, there is nothing quite like the magnificent Cathedral as a backdrop for the play – and the illuminated façade against the evening sky lets the audience enjoy this impressive open-air spectacle to its fullest.

Coffee house culture in Salzburg and why the "Echte" [real] Mozartkugeln are nowhere near as good as the Original ones

Salzburg's coffee house culture offers a wide range of delicacies. Perhaps you are already familiar with the original Mozartkugeln from Konditorei Fürst, which are not to be confused with the "Echte Mozartkugeln". No? Then you have already missed out, because as soon as you first bite into the rich chocolate coating, the fine praline with its creamy, velvety texture melts in your mouth and tells your palate never to let the "real" ones fool you into thinking they are the originals again.

Another insider tip in Salzburg is Café Schatz with its unmistakable Kardinalsschnitten [genoise sponge with soft meringue], which the German-Austrian tenor Jonas Kaufmann loves so much. But please don't tell anyone this secret.

Cultural diversity, a wealth of perspectives and natural splendour – Salzburg, paradise on earth

Modernity in Salzburg blends elegantly with its historical heritage. One example of this is the Walk of Modern Art, an open-air exhibition of modern sculptures that blend subtly into the aesthetic townscape. With the unmistakable silhouette of the town in mind, I can't help but think of my grandfather's creed: " He whom God places in this land, God loves!" Of course, he was talking about his home region, Allgovia – but precisely this belief can also be applied perfectly to the town and Province of Salzburg. The residents of Salzburg can truly consider themselves lucky to be able to enjoy the full range of cultural diversity and to have such fantastic recreational areas nearby. The Untersberg, Kapuzinerberg, Gaisberg and Mönchsberg mountains, all in the immediate vicinity, are perfect for hiking, walking and relaxing. From one of the viewpoints on Salzburg's city mountains, visitors can observe the vibrant hustle and bustle of the Old Town from above, as well as the magnificent mountain panorama beyond Hohensalzburg Fortress which is quite impressive on a cloudless day. A hike up one of the many local mountains is definitely recommended, or you can opt for one of the roof terraces, such as that of Hotel Stein, where you can enjoy the marvellous view of Salzburg over a sundowner.

Everything in Salzburg radiates joie de vivre. But what plays an equally significant role in the lives of Salzburgers alongside enjoyment, culture and lifestyle is that which has evolved from tradition and conveys a sense of belonging. Let's call it Heimat, or rather: the Heimatwerk This is where special traditional costumes are tailored according to traditional patterns. Dirndl lovers can choose from over 1,000 exquisite and pure natural fabrics, customise their dream outfits and show them off at the Great Festival Hall – the very place where magic meets great emotions – the Stage of the World – an unparalleled cultural experience that evokes insatiable desires.

Author Nicole Hacke
Published 15.07.2024

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